Getting back into cooking since 2009.


Monday, April 27, 2009

Fish and Chips

All has been quiet on the cooking front lately. I seem to go in and out of cooking phases, and I'm currently 'out', but I'm reading the French Laundry Cookbook and Heat by Bill Buford so I expect I'll have a renewed enthusiasm for cooking soon.

Anyway, this is the sort of dish to cook when you can't be bothered cooking: basic grilled fish and chips. Sweetlips has disappointed us the last few times we've been there, so we thought we'd make some at home.






The fish: season and dust in a little flour, then pan-fry over medium-high heat in butter and a little olive oil. Sprinkle some lemon zest over the top and add a bit of lemon juice and parsley at the end.

The chips: cut into roughly 1cm chips, add to a large pot of cold, salted water. Bring to the boil, then immediately drain. Leave to steam/dry for a few minutes in the colander, then spread in a single layer on a baking sheet. Toss them in plenty of olive oil and salt, then roast at 220c for about 40 mins (or until they're nice and crispy).

Serve with a few slices of lemon and tartare sauce.

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Braised oxtail with pan-fried gnocchi


This is the sort of thing that's very easy to do, but a bit tricky to do very well. Gnocchi need a light touch and as little flour as possible to make them light and delicious. I can honestly say that I'm as happy with this dish as I have been with anything I've cooked.

I love the arrival of slightly colder weather, as it gives me an excuse to go back to cooking this sort of food. If someone asked me what me favourite dish is, I'd probably have to reply "a cheap cut of meat cooked for several hours".

This dish was inspired by Cantina's delicious pan-fried gnocchi. I can't remember what they served them with, but it was incredible.

For the oxtail:

Softly sweat a large onion, a couple of cloves of garlic, and maybe some celery.

Meanwhile brown the oxtail pieces on all sides over a high heat.

Add some crushed spices (fennel seeds in this case), a cinnamon stick, bay leaf, a few tins of tomatoes and some wine to the onions, then add the browned meat and braise at 150c for four or five hours. Take the tail pieces out of the braising liquid, allow to cool, carefully shred with forks, return to the braising liquid.

For the gnocchi:

Take 6 medium-sized potatoes, prick their skins all over with a fork, rub them with olive oil and place on a bed of rock salt. Roast at 220c for about an hour.

Give them a couple of minutes to cool down, then slice them in half and scoop out their insides. Push the potato insides through a sieve (a masher is not fine enough), then season, add an egg yolk and half a handful of flour.

The idea is to shape this potato mix into sausage-like strips and then cut them into gnocchi (which apparently means "lumps"). The problem with this is that your mixture will be quite wet and sticky, and hard to work with. You need to add flour to make it more pliable, but not too much flour. Flour makes your gnocchi heavier and stodgier, so you need just enough flour to bind it all together without overdoing it.

The whole thing is a bit hard to quantify, and it has taken me a few attempts to really be happy with the results, but these particular gnocchi were everything I'd hoped for: soft, light little things that still held together in the pot.

To cook them I blanched them in a large pot of salted water and then placed them in an enamelled cast iron pan with plenty of butter. Don't be tempted to turn the gnocchi too often, as they won't get that beautiful browned outside if you do. Add a good handful of sage leaves for the last 45 seconds or so, and serve on top of braised oxtail. Serve with good parmesan.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Prosciutto and Fig and Chevre, oh my!

Not much cooking went on with this but it was tasty so I say it counts. I should mention this was inspired by an awesome salad at Cantina a couple of months ago.

Onto the (West End Deli baguette, the king of the breads) sliced bread went:
1. homemade fig jam
2. some layers of prosciutto
3. small yet expensive amount of crumbled chevre
4. a mint leaf
5. candied prosciutto

For the candied prosciutto, fry strips in some oil & butter until they are all buckled and crispy and "rich mahogany" in colour, according to the recipe I vaguely went from and then leave to cool completely. While thats cooling, make a simple sugar syrup and let that cool a bit, then dip the crunchy (caution: fragile!) prosciutto in the syrup and then heat with a kitchen blow torch until its seems caramelly and almost golden. Be careful not to get the flame too close or direct onto any unsugared prosciutto or it will burn and that is no fun. Let it cool, not on paper towel, until crisp again.

(starter for dinner, 29/3/09)

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Pumpkin & Ginger Soup

This was a reasonable start to what I hope is a full autumn of many soup times! The recipe is from issue one of Jamie Oliver's magazine, I'm not sure what it is called exactly? Probably JAMIE or something just as creative. I put less chilli powder than it said and it was still pretty spicy, maybe our chilli is super hot?? The fresh herbs and lime juice were a nice thing to balance that out though. Buttered bread is also an important addition.
Saute 1kg chopped pumpkin, 2 chopped shallots & 75g grated ginger in olive oil in a large pan til soft. Add 1 litre vegetable stock, 125ml coconut milk, ½ tbsp chilli powder. Season, bring to boil and then simmer for 40 minutes. Blend, and serve with fresh herbs such as chives and mint (I added basil and coriander also), lime juice and an extra splash of coconut milk.

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Retro Betty's






Dear Retro Betty's,


I've tried. I keep going back to you out of a lingering nostalgia, a fading love for the Bistro burger and a vague sense of pity. No more.


Tonight I had a sloppy burger, with a dry patty about 3mm thick, way too much sauce and a bunch of sandy cos lettuce. On the side we had some soggy, waaaay oversalted chips.


How did you manage to have more dirty tables than tables with diners?


Why would you think that printing some hideous, laminated 'blog' would be an adequate response to Jus Burgers?


Why did you get rid of the booths?


Why are the walls purple, save for a yellow patch with random phrases on it?


Why have those blockmounts been perched on top on the seats for the last four or five years? Is it that hard to hang them on the wall?


Why have you not reprinted (let alone updated) your menus in four or five years?


I want you to be good!


Sincerely,


Matt C.

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